Trdelník Origins, Misleading Czech Pastry, The Truth About Trdelník
In recent years, trdelník has become ubiquitous in Prague. This doughy, sugar-coated sweet is everywhere, marketed as a “traditional Czech specialty.” However, trdelník is not originally Czech. Despite being billed as a local delicacy, this pastry was adopted from other European regions.
In February 2023, newly appointed United States ambassador to the Czech Republic, Bijan Sabet, posted a photo on Instagram of himself holding an ice cream-topped trdelník. The Czech press quickly criticized him, calling it “the first mistake of the new American ambassador” and even naming it “TrdelníkGate.”
So, what’s the fuss about, and how did a pastry cause an international scandal?
Trdelník Origins and Its Rise in Prague
If you walk through Prague’s historical center, you’ll see many shops selling trdelník, spinning on a stick over burning charcoal. These shops advertise it as an “Old Czech Specialty,” and tourists line up for a taste. However, the trdelník isn’t Czech in origin.
The pastry’s history can be traced back to the 15th Century, first mentioned in a manuscript in Heidelberg, Germany. By the 18th Century, it was found in a cookbook in Transylvania. From there, trdelník made its way to Hungary, where it is still known today as kürtöskalács, before eventually becoming popular in the Hungarian town of Skalica, which later became part of Czechoslovakia.
The Trdelník’s Czech Connection
The first trdelník shop in the Czech Republic opened in 2004 in Moravia. The shop’s founder, Martin Figura, stated that the pastry originated from Hungary. By 2005, another baker, Martin Švarc, opened a trdelník stand in the tourist town of Česky Krumlov, and by 2015, trdelník had become a popular tourist dessert in Prague, often served with a scoop of ice cream.
Journalist Janek Rubeš, whose YouTube channel The Honest Guide has 1.4 million subscribers, has been vocal about trdelník’s misleading marketing. He explains that the scent of caramelized sugar and the visual appeal entice tourists into thinking it is a part of authentic Czech culinary culture.
Local Reactions to Trdelník’s Popularity
Not all Prague residents are thrilled about trdelník’s association with Czech culture. In December 2022, two theatre students created a project involving a life-size trdelník costume with the words “I AM NOT CZECH TRADITION” scrawled on it. As they roamed the streets of Prague, the irony was often lost on tourists, who thought the costume promoted the pastry.
Prague traditionally lacks a street food culture. Typical Czech cuisine is hearty and often enjoyed in pubs alongside a pilsner. Many locals feel trdelník shop owners are reinventing Czech history for profit, betting on tourists’ lack of knowledge about authentic Czech food.
A Tourist-Fueled Industry
As tourism in the Czech Republic grew, so did the trdelník industry. In 2003, there were no trdelník shops, and the country saw 20 million tourists. By 2019, tourism had nearly doubled, and trdelník shops became a common sight across Prague.
Professor Alessandro Gerosa of the University of Milan views the trdelník phenomenon as an example of authenticity being exploited by urban tourism. Despite local opposition, the pastry continues to thrive as a tourist favorite, symbolizing how tourism can reshape cultural perceptions.
The Future of Trdelník in Czech Cuisine
Juliana Fischerová, a baker and food writer, believes that trdelník may eventually become part of the canon of Czech cuisine. She points out that fried cheese, now a popular dish in the Czech Republic, wasn’t originally Czech either. Over time, however, it became embedded in the local culinary tradition.
Authenticity is a complex concept, often based on collective perception. What seems authentic to one person may be seen as fabricated to another. While many tourists enjoy trdelník believing it is authentically Czech, locals understand its true roots and recognize it as an adaptation rather than a traditional specialty.
The Verdict on Trdelník
Despite its popularity, many trdelník pastries end up in trash bins around Prague, half-eaten. Even I couldn’t resist trying one. It was flaky, soft, but ultimately bland. Like many tourists, I found myself discarding the second half of the pastry.
In the end, trdelník is a symbol of how tourism can reshape cultural identity, offering visitors an experience that feels authentic but is far from its actual origins.
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