Cheesemaking Tradition in Kars
Located near the Armenian and Georgian borders, Kars is Turkey’s cheese capital, celebrated for its unique cheesemaking traditions that blend Russian and Swiss influences. Kars is not only a city of historical significance, with its skyline featuring a 12th-century castle and remnants of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture, but it is also a city with a rich culinary heritage centered on cheese.
Cheesemaking Tradition in Kars
Kars’ cheesemaking heritage is rooted in the traditions inherited from an exiled Russian sect. The Molokans, who were known as “milk drinkers,” were exiled to the region by the Russian Empire in the late 19th century. They brought with them their cheesemaking knowledge, which laid the foundation for the cheese varieties produced in Kars today.
Kars Gravyer and Kashar Cheese
Kars is most famous for its Gravyer cheese, a hard cheese similar to Swiss Gruyere but often compared to Emmental in flavor. This cheese, introduced by Swiss cheesemaker David Moser in 1878, is produced using traditional methods involving copper cauldrons and wooden tools, which give Kars Gravyer its distinct taste. The other popular cheese, Kars Kashar, is an aged cheese made with cow and sheep’s milk. Both cheeses are a reflection of Kars’ unique combination of geography and culture, influenced by the rich local plant varieties grazed by the animals.
Boğatepe Village and Cheese Production
A key center of Kars’ cheesemaking is Boğatepe, a village founded by the Molokans in the 19th century. Boğatepe is renowned for its authentic cheese production, using techniques that have remained largely unchanged for generations. The Koçulu family, who run one of the village’s prominent cheese factories, still use Molokan copper pots that are over 150 years old to produce Kars Gravyer. The seasonal nature of production means that different cheeses are made throughout the year, with Kars Gravyer being produced in spring and summer, while fresher cheeses like “yellow cheese” are made in winter.
Revival of Kars’ Cheese Heritage
In the early 2000s, Boğatepe’s cheesemaking traditions faced challenges due to stagnation and migration. However, thanks to efforts led by local residents like Ilhan Koçulu, who secured funding from the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), the village’s cheese industry saw a revival. A women’s cooperative was established to support local tourism, allowing cheesemakers to focus on their craft while tourists explored the village and tasted its diverse cheese offerings.
Today, Boğatepe produces 32 distinct types of cheese, each with its unique flavor profile and history. From Kars Gravyer to Kashar and even rare cheeses like “Caucasian Shepherd’s Cheese,” the village has become a key destination for culinary tourism in eastern Turkey. Visitors come not only for the cheese but also for the experience of learning about the traditions that have shaped this remarkable region.
For more details on Kars’ cheese heritage, you can visit the BBC or explore related analysis on Kenkou Land.
